Pick of the Vine: This Riesling a fine summer sipper

Pick of the Vine: This Riesling a fine summer sipper

BY TIM DWIGHT • FOR FLORIDA TODAY • May 28, 2009
View article here: www.floridatoday.com


The 2008 Kung Fu Girl Riesling from Charles Smith Wines is this week's selection.

With Memorial Day behind us, we've moved into our summer weather cycle: hot, humid and plenty of rain. Wine drinking habits invariably will change as well; time to lighten up and check out what's new in whites.

The fun and frisky Kung Fu Girl qualifies on both counts. Riesling finally has begun an inevitable comeback from varietal geek-dom, and all the stats on wine consumption say the grape is on a roll.

That's roll, as in rock 'n' roll, which fits the style -- and producer -- of this particular wine. Vintner Charles Smith returned to the wine business several years ago after spending more than a decade managing rock groups in northern Europe. His nontraditional approach to winemaking, "the modernist project," in his words, has generated quite a bit of buzz among the critics and wine press.

Smith has established his miniempire (and more on that in a future "The Grapevine" column) in the Walla Walla region of southeastern Washington State. He's sourcing grapes from throughout the best growing sites of that region as well as along the Columbia River Valley.

The Evergreen Vineyard lies along the steep cliffs above the river, and the climate allows the grapes to mature well into the season until harvest in late October.

Varietal character, similar to a classic Mosel-style riesling, is clean and fruity as fermentation and aging occur in stainless steel. The resulting wine is an intense and nervy white, with aromas of apricots, peaches and pears. Crisp with just a slight edge of sweetness from the fruit, the Kung Fu Girl will pair well with summer salads, Asian cuisine and sushi.

But this is one wine that will please poolside loungers as well; no need to go into fighting mode to enjoy this Kung Fu Girl.