Journey to Jordan

Journey to Jordan

Through The Grapevine, By Tim Dwight
August 20, 2009

To view the article as it appears in Florida Today, click here: http://www.floridatoday.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=2009908200302


Not even your intrepid travelers could have gotten lost this time.

We've just finished up a tour and tasting at the Ferrari-Carano Winery, located in the northwestern part of Sonoma County in the Dry Creek appellation. It's a quick 15 minute jaunt up and over to the Alexander Valley and this afternoon's destination at Jordan Vineyards & Winery.

For perhaps the first-and only occasion on our trip, we're on time. This serendipity provides an opportunity for us to poke around a little; the Jordan campus (and I use that word precisely), consists of over 1,300 hillside acres and numerous wine buildings all spread out in leisurely fashion.

The main building containing the winery and cellars was first established in May of 1972, and its graceful chateau-styled architecture continues to adorn the labels of the Jordan families' wine. Thoroughly covered with vines, this iconic facility lends credence to the impression of stability and tradition.

John Jordan has taken over the reigns of operation at the winery; fittingly he was born on the same date in 1972 that his father, Tom, received the deed for the original property.

That sort of continuity defies current fashion at the very least, and when you learn that winemaker Rob Davis began his career at Jordan with the very first vintage....well...a visitor just can't help feeling a bit humbled.


We start our tour, which consists of 8 persons, with Guest Services Manager Sean Brosnihan, a loquacious sort eager to share his knowledge.

Sean tells us that the Jordan family philosophy has remained true to the course first established in those early days. Although there has been a certain amount of experimentation over the years, the winery steadfastly continues to produce just one white and one red bottling, a business model that proved extremely controversial, particularly amongst the wineries first financial backers.

Their white wine, a chardonnay, drawn from vineyards in the Russian River area, honors a Burgundian style of wine. The grapes receive a slow, cold fermentation in small 100% French oak barrels, and then age for another 5 to 6 months. Minimal malolactic fermentation allows the juice to retain much of its natural acidity, and supports a clean, crisp, mineral-laden framework. We taste citrus, apple and oak-aided vanilla accents, but this is not a wine for lovers of those buttery, alcoholic efforts that have so dominated the chardonnay landscape for many years.

We also sample the wineries' sole red, a 2005 cabernet sauvignon made from estate vineyards surrounding the property. 76% cabernet sauvignon grapes-remember you need a minimum of 75% to keep that name of the label---are supplemented with a blend that is 19% merlot and 5% petite verdot.

Also intentionally produced in a traditional, left bank-Medoc style, the cab is filled with soft red currant and cherry flavors, the oak nuances of 18 months aging apparent primarily on the wine's lengthy finish.

"We're realistic about these wines, and when most of them will be consumed", says Brosnihan. "Although both the cab--as well as the chard--will reward a little patience, a good proportion will be sold to fine dining restaurants around the country. And that means those corks are coming out sooner rather than later".

As the tasting concludes, my traveling companion and I are separated from the rest of the group, who are being shown up to their quarters-suites-on the second story of the building. We watch the departing guests with jealous glances as we are left standing by the door.

"Surely our reputations haven't preceded ourselves", offers my friend, and we both heave an audible sigh of relief as, instead of being shown the door, we are ushered into a side foyer.

"Diego is going to be your driver this evening; we've got you two up in the cottage at the top of the hill", Brosnihan explains.

Following up a windy, gravel lane we eventually arrive at the Jordan's inimitable version of a "cottage". "This was originally built for one of the Jordan daughters", says our driver. "Now, we use it for lucky guests...", he smiles.

We are amply impressed with our appointed quarters, a tree-house of sorts with more than a few bells and whistles added in. We've got the epitome of wine-country style; a full-and stocked-kitchen; giant flat screen t.v., three bedrooms with surrounding balconies that overlook the Jordan estate...well, you get the picture.

We give our driver a special handshake, as he will be picking us up for our appointed engagement over in Healdsburg at 7 o'clock.

Just our luck to have a chauffeured livery for tonight's dinner at Cyrus, the two-star Michelin restaurant that we've chosen--over Napa's French Laundry--for the culinary pinnacle of our little journey.

I think it's finally time to get Sideways...




~ Tim Dwight