Getting High In Napa

Getting High in Napa


Tim Dwight | Through the Grapevine | September 10, 2009

To view the article as it appears in Florida Today, click here: http://www.floridatoday.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=2009909100308


Back on the road, running late again, my traveling companion and I are trying to follow the directions we've been given.

"Do NOT attempt to use MapQuest, a GPS, or any local road maps to get to Colgin Cellars", read the instruction sheet I'd received in the mail.

Instead: "Turn off Silverado Trail at the green barn, follow the road to Lake Hennessey, turn across from the white fence at the first of three driveways."

Then: Up the hill for 2.4 miles, right at the (unmarked) fork, and then a quick left. Stop at the gate and wait for assistance.

A formidable route, but nothing compared to the task of arranging a tour in the first place. Colgin Cellars is one of the elite; no tour busses, no winery sales, and no signs to let you know that you've indeed arrived.

I'd managed to wrangle an invitation for a visit to the winery, though it required playing all my cards; wine retailer, restaurateur, long-time mailing list member, wine writer, and finally, fellow Floridian.

It's this last connection that ultimately did the trick, I believe, as I added a post script to my ultimate request stating, "and a previous acquaintance with (owner) Ann Colgin, back to her days of living in Florida".

Not exactly close buddies, but I had spoken to Ann a few times during her tenure in Palm Beach, where she had been President of Fairchilds Fine Art from 1985 to 1997.

A circuitous route from Florida to the Napa Valley, Colgin managed the transition from art director and auctioneer to become one of Napa's most prestigious addresses. Ann and her former husband Fred Schrader began Colgin-Schrader Cellars back in 1992, though by the third vintage she was alone at the helm of a winery with a burgeoning reputation. Though apparently handicapped by not owning any vines or physical winery, Colgin nevertheless succeeded through a series of fortunate choices. First and foremost was the decision to hire up-and-coming winemaker Helen Turley, a viniferous wunderkin who had just begun to make her mark upon the Napa wine scene.

Leasing property and purchasing grapes from the Herb Lamb vineyard on the eastern hillsides of St. Helena proved fortuitous as well; Colgin and company barely had several vintages out of the way and they were earning scores from critics such as Robert Parker for 95, 98, and ultimately 100 points for the Colgin Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon.

Such perfection would seemingly be an easy resting point for some vintners, but Colgin was just getting started. Over the course of the next dozen years, she purchased and renovated a five acre abandoned wine site once belonging to Josephine Tycheson, the first woman winemaker in 19th Century California, then moved on to develop a third vineyard source from consultant David Abreu's Madrona Ranch.

Colgin, Turley and Abreu, with an occasional visit from Bordelaise consultant Dr. Alain Raynaud, built upon their early successes, placing Colgin Cellars at the top ranks of Napa Valley wineries. But the one thing missing still--and next on Ann's agenda-was an actual on-site winery.

In 2004, Colgin and her then-winemaker, Mark Aubert, located a parcel high on top of Pritchard Hill which proved both remote and inspiring. Several years of digging out boulders, terracing for vineyards and fine-tuning the 125 acre property led to the establishment of IX (No. 9) Estate, and finally, a bricks-and-mortar winery of her own. At an altitude of 1300 feet above sea level, the new vineyards command breathtaking views of the Napa Valley below; Lake Hennessey shining like jewel in the backdrop behind the winery.

This is the vantage point that my companion and I have stumbled across as we pull into a gravel driveway and park our car. We're late, naturally, and this hasn't helped with the feeling of intimidation as we knock on the door with no apparent results.

"Maybe we should just open it and peak in?", queried my partner; "someone's got to be here..."

We've certainly come too far not to poke around a bit, and soon inside the door we make the acquaintance of a young lady busily dusting some shelves. "Ah, Ms. Colgin, yes, she's here...and waiting."

All of the thoughts of how difficult this visit was to arrange, of how Colgin's PR guru requested a list of potential topics of query in advance, of the formal tone of all our previous correspondence: I took a deep breathe and waited. "Delighted to see you!", enthused Ann Colgin as she breezed into the room with a slightly perplexed look. "Where was it exactly that we'd met before...?"

Establishing our credentials as fellow Floridians, my friend and I began what eventually turned out to be a several hour visit of the winery. And any thoughts of intimidation and formality were quickly dispelled by Ms. Colgin, who proved herself both knowledgeable, disarming, attractive, and ...; "You'd probably best stop there", suggested my friend, reading my notes. "I can see you getting us in some trouble with the wives back home."

So, yes, suffice it to say, we had what was to be the highlight of our trip through the wine country. The views, the winery tour, the opportunity of meeting with current winemaker Allison Tauziat, these all had a slightly intoxicating effect before retiring to the casual tasting bar to sip some actual wine.

"We're producing five different wines now", said Colgin. "There's still the original cab from the Herb Lamb vineyard, though that contract will be ending soon. We're still partnering with David Abreu for grapes from his vineyard, and the Tycheson Hill property has really come into its own."

"Up here at IX Estate, we've planted a mixture of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cab franc, petite verdot and syrah", continued our host. "We're releasing estate bottlings of a cabernet-blend and also the syrah."

All very difficult, if not impossible, to find once the wines are bottled. Top restaurants can make the cut to receive an allocation, but a majority goes straight to the wine club mailing list.

The soon to be released '06 vintage of the IX Estate has garnered a perfect 100 point score from Robert Parker, so there's a buzz of anticipation that comes with such a pinnacle of success. Parker described the property "as close to a viticultural nirvana as I've ever seen", which are redoubtable words coming from such a well- traveled connoisseur.

My friend and I are content to sip some of this ethereal wine in the company of our gracious host.

High up above the Napa Valley is a pretty fine place to be, indeed.




~ Tim Dwight

A Slow Descent to Sideways...

A Slow Descent to Sideways...

Tim Dwight "| Through the Grapevine | August 27, 2009

To view the article as it appears in Florida Today, click here: http://www.floridatoday.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=2009908270303


"We'll let the chef know that you've arrived, Mr. Dwight; welcome to Cyrus".

I'd like to think that we were getting special V.I.P. treatment, but I'd been forewarned that all diners are greeted in like manner.

(Reputedly, when the restaurant first opened a few years' ago, they would even bring a phone along tableside and call the chef to inform him of a guest's arrival).

Nevertheless nonplussed, my traveling companion and I had arrived for an evening of gustatory gluttony at one of the wine countries' top restaurants, taking advantage of the chauffeur service offered by our hosts at Jordan.

"Yes, sir, anywhere you'd like to go for dinner tonight, we'll be happy to drop you off and pick you up later", offered our new friend from Guest Services. "Particularly if you're unfamiliar with some of the local terrain, it can be a little daunting to find your way back here after a big meal; not all of the roads are well marked, and in the dark..."

Had us from 'hello', as they say; the opportunity of not having to drive for our night out couldn't have come at a better time. My friend and I have been planning a meal like this for quite some time; Cyrus is not the sort of restaurant where one just pops in unannounced for dinner. Reservations must be made weeks in advance, and even then, we've just made it off the "wait" list to fill the space of a last minute cancellation.

That probably explains why we're seated between the waiter's station and hostess stand. It has nothing to do with the fact that a trio of well-dressed forty-something women have arrived amidst clouds of competing perfume and non-stop chattering, and they're going to be seated, just as I suspect, at a table about a foot and a half away from our own.

"Hoo-boy", whispered my companion, "there goes the neighborhood".

"Well, maybe they'll be a quick in-and-out", I replied. "I bet too many people don't order the chef's eight-course menu like we have tonight."

"But we've been here for over half an hour and they haven't even brought us the first course yet", noted my friend.

He's right, but we've not been lacking for attention-or food-thus far. In well choreographed orchestration, we've been offered several rounds of canapés and "amuse bouche" as they say in the fine dining trade these days. This last round is particularly profound: a three-tiered platter designed to "awaken all five senses", describes our waiter.

He goes on to explain that each of the micro-sized morsels have been designed to stimulate the taste sensations of salty, sweet, bitter, sour, and umami (savory).

As with most of our meal this evening, the ingredients are both many and complex, and trying to recall exactly what they were, from my vantage point several weeks later, is a bit too daunting for this writer. Suffice to say, I do remember the waiter describing the "salty" offering as the chef's attempt to re-create a Philly-style soft pretzel. Not quite what I remember from my days at the Jersey shore, though as I munch down, I kind of get what he's saying...

After a brief interlude with the Champagne and caviar cart, we opt for the chef's special menu, which changes nightly. Our meal goes on to include such likes as "Tataki of Waygu Beef with Tomatoes, Avocado and Sea Beans"; "Turbot with Corn, Scallions and Radish, Shiso-Ginger Dashi"; "Abalone with Kijiki Noodles and Snap Peas" (and those are just the first three).

"Good thing these portions are small", notes my friend, and fortunately he's right. These artistic creations take much longer to craft in the kitchen than they do to consume; most can be done in one quick bite.

We're just about at the point in our meal when the table next to us has been seated, and the three ladies immediately alter the course of our evening.

"Could you take back our wine and chill it properly this time?" says one of the trio, "this is an expensive chardonnay, after all..." she elucidates unnecessarily to the patient waiter.

(There's not a sliver of doubt in my mind that their wine, like ours, has arrived at the perfect serving temperature, about 45-48 degrees, which is just not ice-box cold as too many folks are used to.)

I exchange a sympathetic smile with the sommelier, who has come over to attend to the desires of the women, but now one of them has caught the subtle exchange, "Stop laughing at us", she grimaces.

"Sorry!", I apologize for the indiscretion, which I immediately blame on my friend. "We're just enjoying our meal, and that's one of my friend's favorite Kistler chardonnays", I offer in a hopefully conciliatory note.

But the damage has been done and there's no getting the jack back in the box at this point. "Say, where are you two guys from anyway?", says one of the ladies; "We live in San Jose, the Silicon Valley, you know. Girl's getaway. We're staying at this cute little B & B down the road. This is one of our favorite restaurants; we were going to go somewhere else but then we thought that this one would remind us of last year when we all went to Paris and had this simply delightful meal at..."

Fortunately, we were saved by the arrival of our next course, "Duck Breast with Sherry Jus; Rosti Potatoes and Peppers". It was also time to move from our opening bottle of white wine, a Savenniere (dry chenin blanc) from the Loire Valley, which I had ferreted out from the restaurant's wine list.

They say that a good sommelier will save a few hidden kisses on his or her wine list for knowing patrons, and at $38 the Savenniere fit the bill; a much friendlier price point than the hundreds of other bottles going for upwards of $100 a shot.

I'd also taken an opportunity to look over the complete list of wine offerings at Cyrus over the internet, as that's a deregueur practice for high end restaurants these days.

Plenty of great wines, but then I also noticed the small print at the bottom stating: "Corkage fee $35". With all of our travels through the wine country, we'd managed to accumulate a few nice bottles; what better opportunity to enjoy a few of them...

By now our (near) dining companions were curious as to what we had brought, wine-wise, and offered to trade some of theirs in return.

"My husband told me I could take anything in his cellar", said one of the women. "But then he decided I should have this bottle of Bordeaux-a Haut Brion."

Impressive, until I looked at the label. It was a Grand Cru all right, but from the unremarkable, even dismal 2002 vintage* .Too young to drink, no matter the provenance; I easily imagine this woman's husband as he condescendingly offered this "special" bottle to his wife, "Just perfect for your night out with the girls, hon."

Next up on the menu was a choice between "Lamb Roulade with Fennel, Garbanzo Beans, and Black Olive", or, the one I couldn't resist, "Cyrus BLT". Being an adventurous sort, I had to see what would inspire the chef to such an offering...

After the obligatory exchange of wine bottles with our neighbors (I confess there wasn't much left in our bottle by the time we switched); we were treated to an extravagant cheese platter. Delectable selections, all hand made by local farms...intoned our waiter.

And all with unpronounceable or forgettable names at this point in our meal. We'd finished our second bottle, and most of our neighbor's Haut Brion as well...isn't it amazing how much better a formerly bad wine can get as an evening wears on? Time for something else; we still had multiple cheeses remaining, and then those two dessert courses as well.

I ordered several glasses from the wine list, and used the lull to explore different parts of the restaurant. After discerning that, "No, we don't have any Averna in stock", from the bartender (anyone recall last spring's column about drinking with Mario Batalli?), I repaired to our table to find my friend locked in heated conversation with the neighbors.

"Well, I'll have you know that my friend here was on the cover of the Wall Street Journal last week", said one of the women.

"Yeah, and so was Bernie Madoff", grumbled my companion.

Our waiter deftly noted that things were beginning to spiral out of control and saved us once again with the dessert course (or courses). "Cherry and Pistachio Ice Cream Sandwich with Cardamon Streusel", and then "Strawberry Rhubarb Bread Pudding".

Fortunately again, tiny bite-size portions, but as with all of our dishes that evening, simply exquisite. Just enough to soothe the savage beast, or at least calm down tensions in our part of the dining room, which we noted, had miraculously begun to clear.

"Well, it is past midnight", offered my friend. "What time did we ask the driver to pick us up?"

Oh, about fifteen minutes ago, I remembered, and sure enough, parked outside the front window was our inscrutable driver.

"Don't let him leave without us", my companion croaked, "I'll get the bill and we can settle up in the morning."

Time to call it a night; there's a slow descent towards sideways...we should have known there's a price to pay for having all that fun!


~ Tim Dwight


*Footnote: Robert Parker's Wine Advocate describes the '02 Haut Brion thusly: "...Lacking the natural ambiance of other vintages...smooth but lacks complexity and depth...reserved and angular..."

Journey to Jordan

Journey to Jordan

Through The Grapevine, By Tim Dwight
August 20, 2009

To view the article as it appears in Florida Today, click here: http://www.floridatoday.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=2009908200302


Not even your intrepid travelers could have gotten lost this time.

We've just finished up a tour and tasting at the Ferrari-Carano Winery, located in the northwestern part of Sonoma County in the Dry Creek appellation. It's a quick 15 minute jaunt up and over to the Alexander Valley and this afternoon's destination at Jordan Vineyards & Winery.

For perhaps the first-and only occasion on our trip, we're on time. This serendipity provides an opportunity for us to poke around a little; the Jordan campus (and I use that word precisely), consists of over 1,300 hillside acres and numerous wine buildings all spread out in leisurely fashion.

The main building containing the winery and cellars was first established in May of 1972, and its graceful chateau-styled architecture continues to adorn the labels of the Jordan families' wine. Thoroughly covered with vines, this iconic facility lends credence to the impression of stability and tradition.

John Jordan has taken over the reigns of operation at the winery; fittingly he was born on the same date in 1972 that his father, Tom, received the deed for the original property.

That sort of continuity defies current fashion at the very least, and when you learn that winemaker Rob Davis began his career at Jordan with the very first vintage....well...a visitor just can't help feeling a bit humbled.


We start our tour, which consists of 8 persons, with Guest Services Manager Sean Brosnihan, a loquacious sort eager to share his knowledge.

Sean tells us that the Jordan family philosophy has remained true to the course first established in those early days. Although there has been a certain amount of experimentation over the years, the winery steadfastly continues to produce just one white and one red bottling, a business model that proved extremely controversial, particularly amongst the wineries first financial backers.

Their white wine, a chardonnay, drawn from vineyards in the Russian River area, honors a Burgundian style of wine. The grapes receive a slow, cold fermentation in small 100% French oak barrels, and then age for another 5 to 6 months. Minimal malolactic fermentation allows the juice to retain much of its natural acidity, and supports a clean, crisp, mineral-laden framework. We taste citrus, apple and oak-aided vanilla accents, but this is not a wine for lovers of those buttery, alcoholic efforts that have so dominated the chardonnay landscape for many years.

We also sample the wineries' sole red, a 2005 cabernet sauvignon made from estate vineyards surrounding the property. 76% cabernet sauvignon grapes-remember you need a minimum of 75% to keep that name of the label---are supplemented with a blend that is 19% merlot and 5% petite verdot.

Also intentionally produced in a traditional, left bank-Medoc style, the cab is filled with soft red currant and cherry flavors, the oak nuances of 18 months aging apparent primarily on the wine's lengthy finish.

"We're realistic about these wines, and when most of them will be consumed", says Brosnihan. "Although both the cab--as well as the chard--will reward a little patience, a good proportion will be sold to fine dining restaurants around the country. And that means those corks are coming out sooner rather than later".

As the tasting concludes, my traveling companion and I are separated from the rest of the group, who are being shown up to their quarters-suites-on the second story of the building. We watch the departing guests with jealous glances as we are left standing by the door.

"Surely our reputations haven't preceded ourselves", offers my friend, and we both heave an audible sigh of relief as, instead of being shown the door, we are ushered into a side foyer.

"Diego is going to be your driver this evening; we've got you two up in the cottage at the top of the hill", Brosnihan explains.

Following up a windy, gravel lane we eventually arrive at the Jordan's inimitable version of a "cottage". "This was originally built for one of the Jordan daughters", says our driver. "Now, we use it for lucky guests...", he smiles.

We are amply impressed with our appointed quarters, a tree-house of sorts with more than a few bells and whistles added in. We've got the epitome of wine-country style; a full-and stocked-kitchen; giant flat screen t.v., three bedrooms with surrounding balconies that overlook the Jordan estate...well, you get the picture.

We give our driver a special handshake, as he will be picking us up for our appointed engagement over in Healdsburg at 7 o'clock.

Just our luck to have a chauffeured livery for tonight's dinner at Cyrus, the two-star Michelin restaurant that we've chosen--over Napa's French Laundry--for the culinary pinnacle of our little journey.

I think it's finally time to get Sideways...




~ Tim Dwight

Taking the windy road to Sonoma

Taking the windy road to Sonoma

Tim Dwight | The Grapevine | August 13, 2009

To view this article as it appeared in Florida Today, click here: http://www.floridatoday.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20090813/LIFE/908130307&template=printart



"Looks like this little squiggly line here will get us over to Sonoma," say my friend says.

"Looks pretty small to me," I reply. "Are you sure that's a road and not just a fold in the map?"

For some reason, there's simply no way to get there from here. Going from a mid-point in the Napa Valley to a central location in the adjacent Sonoma Valley is neigh on impossible without having to drive nearly an hour north -- or south -- to skirt the Mayacamas range that severs the two.

Intrepid locals (and foolhardy greenhorns) can find a back-road path that wends its way connecting the Valleys, and that, of course, is where we've gotten a bit lost, apparently.

"This would be a great spot for one of those European-style train tunnels," laments my navigator. "We probably should have turned at that last gravel road." Back up, turn around, try again.

We should have expected no less when the few road signs are labeled, "grade," "divide" and -- worst of all -- "private drive."

But nevertheless, we've managed to succeed as we rumble down a final jungle-like hillside onto the floor of the Sonoma Valley. "Got to admit, that was one beautifully scenic drive," my friend says as we rumble down a final jungle-like hillside onto the floor of the Sonoma Valley.

In contrast to the compact elegance that is the Napa Valley, Sonoma seems random, rural and a bit disorganized. Grapes still represent a huge investment, agriculturally speaking, but Sonoma's farmers rely on growing many other crops as well. Apples, olives, citrus; it's not an uncommon sight to see them growing side by side with the grapevines.

Our next destination in the Dry Creek appellation of Sonoma is certainly no stranger to botanical opulence. The namesake and owner Don Carano made his fortune in the hotel and entertainment business in Reno, and he's spared no expense in creating a winery that can hold its own compared to anything back in Napa.

Dotting the hillside like something out of central casting is Carano's little piece of Tuscany. The views are spectacular. We're only a few minutes late for our appointment with Patrick Mukaida, Ferrari-Carano's director of hospitality.

After a brief inspection of some of the vineyards we tour the winery, cellars and finish in an opulent, underground tasting room. Patrick proves a convivial as well as knowledgeable guide, and he takes us through a tasting of the winery's basic line up of fume blanc, chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, before continuing on to the reserves.

There are varietal bottlings of malbec, petite verdot, and cabernet franc along with several meritage-style blends. We've got the drill down pat now: swirl, sniff and swallow . . . make that spit for the last one.

The sun still is high in the cloudless sky above the valley, and we've got to find our way to the site of our next tasting: Jordan Vineyards.

The Napa Sojourn Continues

The Napa Sojourn Continues

Through the Grapevine | By Tim Dwight | July 30, 2009

To view the article as it appears in Florida Today, click here: http://www.floridatoday.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=2009907300303.


The sunshine is streaming down from a bright, cloudless sky as we begin our early morning jaunt up to Napa Valley.

We’re departing from Livermore and the Wente Winery, where we’ve enjoyed the hospitality of a fine dinner and some great wines. In particular, one of the “small lot” bottlings, a G-S-M (grenache-syrah-mourvedre) blend from Wente will prove to be one of our trips’ most memorable wines. Probably impossible to find back on the East Coast, but…I’ll do my darndest when I get back.

Now: in the car and back on the freeway; thoughts of yesterday’s horrific traffic still on our mind. Fortunately, it proves much easier heading north behind (to the east) of the large cities that dot the Bay Area. In no time we’re on the 680 breezing past signs for Oakland, Berkeley and the suburban sprawl that reaches out for an hour or so in each direction.

Across the Benicia bridge (and a California-esqe $4 one-way toll), then north through Vallejo and finally: Route 29, and a large “Welcome to the Napa Valley” sign.

We’re starting our Napa visit with perhaps the most impressive stop on our itinerary; Harlan winery, located in the western foothills above Oakville.

General Manager Don Weaver has warned us to pay strict attention to the directions that he’s sent; there are no signs or identifying landmarks that’ll lead to their door. Harlan was founded back in the late 80’s by Bill Harlan, and it quickly became the first and foremost of Napa’s cult wineries. There’s a “waiting list” to get on the waiting list to purchase these wines, driven by repeated scores of “100 point” perfection from critics such as the estimable Robert Parker.

Distribution has never been much of an issue, because simply, there isn’t any, unless you’re fortunate enough to have joined the mailing list sometime back in the early 90’s. To be fair, some of the top restaurants in the world manage to receive a small supply, a case here or there, and if you find yourself lucky enough to be dining in one of these hallowed establishments, be prepared to shell out anywhere from $600 to $1000--a bottle--for the Harlan.

This cabernet-based red wine commands top dollar for a good reason: Bill Harlan along with his founding crew of Don Weaver and winemaker Bob Levy have set the goal of achieving perfection—as in those 100 point scores will attest.

“California wines have never been officially classified as they have been back in Bordeaux”, says Weaver, “but our point of reference has always been to establish the equivalent of a ‘first growth’ in the Napa Valley.”

No question you’ve got to invest some serious money to get to that point, and Harlan’s real estate savvy—he founded San Francisco’s Pacific Union Company back in 1985—has provided the wherewithal to achieve their dream.

“We started small, planting the original vines back in ’85 and ‘86”, Weaver explains, “now we’ve got 240 total acres here, though grapes are only planted on about 40 of them. We’re always looking for the best slopes, the best exposure to the sun.”

“The key to success here is no secret”, Weaver says, “low yields, attention to detail, and the privilege of working these hillside vines. Bill Harlan is committed to doing whatever is necessary to produce Napa’s finest Bordeaux-style blends”.

Much of the credit for the success goes to Weaver, an extremely modest sort who has worked with Harlan for over 25 years. “I’m just ‘the back of the horse’ here now” he opines on one hand, but later admits to “having to drink more of this darn wine than anyone else alive”.

Not bad work is you can get it.

Weaver leads my traveling companion and myself on a tour that begins with a bottle of (French) Champagne, enjoyed on a stone patio overlooking the Valley floor below. “That’s the site known as “Martha’s Vineyard” directly below us”, says Weaver; “I was lucky enough to have started my career with old Joe Heitz back in the ‘70s’”.

And indeed, if Harlan set to follow the success of early wineries back in that day, the legendary bottlings of Heitz’s Martha’s Vineyard were a great place to start. I remember staring wistfully at a bottle of the ’74 in a wine store back when it was originally released—and balking at spending the $40 or so it required for purchase.

Times change, and even in these tough economic straits, $40 won’t get you close to the sticker price of a bottle of Napa’s finest.

“Our yields are less than two tons (of grapes) an acre, and even then we use about ½ of the finished juice”, explains Weaver as we tour the cellars. “And these new French (Taransaud) oak barrels go for about $1,200 each. Our cabernet makes up nearly 90% of the finished product, and winemaker Bob Levy uses new oak for all of the wine.”

There are three vintages resting at various stages in the pristine cellars as we continue our tour.

“The strict selection of the finest juice lead us about a dozen years ago to establish a ‘second’ wine, called the ‘Maiden’. According to Weaver, this ensures that only the wineries’ best barrels go into the making of the flagship Harlan.

At the end of our tour, Weaver leads us into the wineries’ library, where we’re able to sample several vintages of the wine. He pours into several large Riedel glasses, and then sets them aside the ‘dump bucket’ that rests on the table.

One glance between my traveling companion and myself; you’ve gotta’ know there was no way a single drop of that wine was ever going in the bucket!

Wine Country Journey, Part I

Wine Country Journey, Part I

Through The Grapevine | By Tim Dwight | July 23, 2009

To view the article as it appears in Florida Today, click here: http://www.floridatoday.com.

“So, is this going to be like that movie, “Sideways”, my friend inquired hopefully.

“No”, I said, “first thing we’re going to Napa Valley, not Santa Barbara. And second, we’re going on a trip to do some serious investigative work. I’ve got some important interviews set up with a few folks who don’t spend their time chatting with retailers, let alone wine writers.”

“I thought you said these visits had been set up for you through the distributors you work with?, my friend asked.

“Well, right, mostly…”

I had managed to finally take advantage of the perks of the trade; 4 nights accommodations comped by some of the wineries whose products I deal with in the retail world. I’d been hearing too often, “Next time you’re out our way in California…”, and yet there I was, tied down to my day job…

Finally: here we are at Orlando International at 8:00 in the a.m., waiting to board our flight for a long week-end to Napa and Sonoma wine country. Well-plotted, tightly executed, ready to go, but now: “San Francisco passengers on flight 82, we regret to inform you that our scheduled airplane is experiencing mechanical difficulties…there will be a delay while we try and located another plane to bring in…”

“Better they found that out now before we took off”, stated my traveling companion.

He’s right, of course, but a couple hours delay means that we’re missing our connection in Denver, and now arriving in San Fran at 4:30 pm. After baggage retrieval and a shuttle off-site to the auto rental we’re hitting Route 101 just about 5:30, prime time for freeway madness, California-style. And to make matters worse, we’ve actually got to head south, and east, from the airport which is the direction all of these battled-hardened drivers seem to be heading.

Our first day’s visit is not north to Napa but southeast towards Livermore. Wente Vineyards is located there in the valley and one of our distributors has set us up with a tour of the winery along with dinner and lodging.

Two guys traveling together: we’ve declined the rental companies’ offer of an additional charge to rent a GPS, and I’m at the wheel of our day-glow blue Korean compact, my friend with the requisite rental map stretched across his lap.

“Now, where the heck is the Livermore Valley, anyway”?

About 50 miles—and 2 hours later—creeping through traffic that would make hardened I-4 drivers blanch with fear, we see signs for our destination.

“Wente Winery, 2 miles on left”, says the sign on the side of the road as we pass from suburban neighborhoods into rolling hills, pastures, and finally: grapevines.

The heavy weight that’s settled down upon us on the drive ---as we realized we were going to miss the winery tour and tasting—begins to lighten up as we pull into the gravelly parking lot of this historic—and remarkable beautiful—Wente winery.

It’s been a long days’ travel; going coast-to-coast no matter how you travel, on-time or 3 hours late---you’re going to be beat. Your watch, still set for eastern standard time, proclaims 10:10 p.m., but that’s 7:10 on the west coast, so we’re only 10 minutes late for our dinner reservations.

The Wente family, five generations and counting, have been in the wine business for over 125 years; they’re California’s “oldest, continually-operating family winery”, as the literature exclaims, having managed to maintain operations during the lull of Prohibition.

After learning about winemaking from Charles Krug, Napa’s original vintner, German immigrant C. H. Wente founded his own winery in 1883. Recognizing that the warm days, cool nights and gravelly soils of the Livermore Valley were ideal for growing grapes, he purchased 48 acres and planted vines.

Flash-forward to 2009: there’s obviously a success story here, even if the limelight of the California wine scene tends to shine more brightly on the north coast appellations of Napa and Sonoma.

The advance literature hasn’t prepared us for the unexpected beauty of the scenery here, and how many wineries can claim to have their own golf course adjacent to the vineyards? A nice diversion, but my friend and I barely have time to check into the small cottage that;ll be our adopted housing for the night.

A quick clean up, then into dinner at the Wente restaurant. We’re not sure quite sure what to expect as far the cuisine goes, but we’ve been give a ticket stating, “Good for $100 off the price of your meal”.

“That should take care of our costs tonight, right?”, offered my companion.

“I’m not so sure…” I begin as we walk into an exquisitely detailed, if understated, dining room. One quick glance and I can tell we’re in for a treat. Not only is the Wente winery of historical importance to the community, I realize, this restaurant is probably their pride and joy as well. Diners are well-dressed, making us a bit self-conscious in our rumpled traveling clothes, though few seem to notice.

“Quite a menu”, says my friend. “I can’t decide between the lamb sirloin and the grilled calamari”.

Choices indeed, and the wine list: the Wente family are confident enough to offer a selection of 200 or so wines from throughout the entire state, not just their own backyard.

But we’re going local, and we’ll stick with that credo with just one exception throughout our trip.

Although my companion is well versed in the ways of wine geeks, he defers the wine selections to me. Time to take advantage of the fact the our night’s lodging is located within stumbling distance of the restaurant’s front door; I opt for a bottle of an unusual white varietal, Verdelho, to match with a set of seafood appetizers. The local version of this wine—more common to Spain and Portugal---is delicious with our first course.

“Light-to-medium bodied, dry; yet still fruity and round”, I write on my notepad.

This is the first of many wines we’ll enjoy on our trip; tune in next week and we’ll continue the journey.

The Grapevine: Best is yet to come from Washington state

The Grapevine: Best is yet to come from Washington state

BY TIM DWIGHT | FOR FLORIDA TODAY | June 18, 2009
View full article here: http://m.floridatoday.com/detail.jsp?key=221671&full=1

Washington has come on strong in recent years as a grape-growing Mecca.

The southeastern part of the state is home to most of the prestigious wineries, and, somewhat surprisingly, lies at nearly the same latitude as the Bordeaux region of France.

The top five grape varietals grown in Washington are cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah for the reds, and riesling and chardonnay for the whites. Although whites outnumber the reds 52 percent to 48 percent, according to the Washington State Wine Commission, it's those red varietals that have brought fame and fortune to the state.

Early on in Washington's relatively brief wine history, merlot rose to prominence with such cult producers as Leonetti Cellars, Woodward Canyon and L'Ecole No. 41. And while that grape's luster may have diminished somewhat in recent years, cab and syrah quickly have risen to the top of the paradigm.

The top vineyard sites for these grapes lie three to five hours southeast of Seattle in the Red Mountain and Walla Walla American Viticultural Appellations. The area around Walla Walla, a city once foremost known for its onions -- and state prison -- now is a hotbed of vineyard operations.

Growth has been dramatic here, attracting a host of new investors.

Charles Smith's K Vintners, along with newcomers Cayuse, Cougar Crest and Long Shadows Winery, produce stellar reds capable of competing with any of Napa's best. Cabernet (blended with a bit of merlot) and syrah lead the charge.

The Red Mountain appellation, which is more of a steep slope facing southwest over the Yakima River, contains the sites of some of Washington's finest individual vineyards. It is not uncommon to see wines featuring grapes from notable vineyards such as Champoux, Ciel Du Cheval, Klipsun or Seven Hills, and vintners scramble to pay a premium to growers for the honor of using such designations.

Notable wineries in the Red Mountain region include Columbia Crest, Col Solare, Gordon Brothers and Hedges.

There are nine other AVA regions in Washington state, with the Columbia Valley being the largest and most commonly seen. This vast region encompasses a wide swath of terrain all the way through to Oregon, and as such contains few distinctive boundaries. Yakima Valley, Horse Heaven Hills, Wahluke Slope and Rattlesnake Hills have been joined in '09 by the newest eastern vineyard appellations in Lake Chelan and Snipes Mountain. Columbia Gorge and Puget Sound are remaining AVA's located to the western side of the Cascades, and are therefore subjected to much higher rainfall totals.

Unquestionably, Washington's named appellation sites have a long way to go before they reach the same level of consumer recognition as many in the Napa and Sonoma valleys.

What is important to keep in mind is that in such young, pioneering grape-growing regions, there's bound to be a lot of experimentation going on. The process will take years -- even decades -- before vintners learn which grapes will do best in which locations.

The geography is diverse in Washington, and there's a plethora of choices winemakers will have to decide with each vintage, but I'm not sure there's a more exciting region to be making wine anywhere these days.

To learn more about Washington wines, go to the fine Web site at washingtonwine.org.

The Grapevine: Washington State a standout in wine production

The Grapevine: Washington State a standout in wine production

BY TIM DWIGHT • FOR FLORIDA TODAY • June 11, 2009


"I suspect that most wine drinkers would be a bit perplexed if asked to name the state with the second largest premium wine production in the U.S.; California is an easy guess for number one, but the wines of Washington State remain under the radar of most wine aficionados."

With that statement nearly five years ago, I began an initial column here in "The Grapevine" on Washington State wines. Much has changed in that time, and I'd offer with some certainty that the wines of this state have made significant inroads with the wine-consuming public.

Numbering 350 in '05, Washington recently celebrated its 600th opening, nearly doubling the size of bonded wineries in a remarkably short time. And while those numbers pale next to their southerly neighbors in California, they certainly represent significant growth -- in quality as well as quantity.

Large Washington operations like Columbia Crest, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Red Diamond and Hogue produce reliable bottlings in the everyday price range from $8 to $15, and these brands challenge more established wineries from California for category dominance.

At the high end, it's a common sight to see cabernets, merlots and syrahs competing for top scores from the critics. As a point of emphasis, a small winery from Snohomish, Wash., specializing in cabernet sauvignon (Quilceda Creek) has managed to score 100 points in critic Robert Parker's Wine Advocate for 3 out of the past 4 vintages. (And the '04, a blot on the record that interrupted the run of perfection? It scored 99 points.)

No other winery -- in Napa, Bordeaux, Tuscany or elsewhere -- can come close to that pinnacle.

For many of us on the east coast, Washington conjures up rainy images of Seattle shorelines and endless pine forests, and there certainly is an element of truth to that vision. But that is also not where most of the state's wine industry is located.

The Cascade Mountain Range, running north to south, bisects the state, and the differences are dramatic as far as weather patterns and geography go. It's not uncommon for Seattle and the western part of the state to tally 50 inches of rain annual. But east of the Cascades in the grape-growing region that stretches across the 120 miles or so of southeastern Washington, they receive 8 to 12 inches a year.

Click here for article link and location.

Pick of the Vine: Blended red from Chile a crowd-pleasing bargain

Pick of the Vine: Blended red from Chile a crowd-pleasing bargain

BY TIM DWIGHT | FOR FLORIDA TODAY | June 4, 2009
View article here: www.floridatoday.com


Palo Alto 2007 Reserve red wine is this week's Pick of the Vine.

The wine industry in Chile, long the source for great bargains, most recently has labored under the shadow of its Andean neighbor, Argentina. The emergence of malbec on the world stage has led to unparalleled growth for this latter country while Chilean imports have slowed perceptibly. But never underestimate the resourcefulness of this westernmost country in South America; well-established large-scale wine producers dominate the industry there, and they've begun to flex their muscles.

Concha Y Toro is one of the formidable conglomerates in Chile, and we all have seen -- and likely tasted -- its wines, which are omnipresent on grocery store shelves around our country.

Palo Alto is a new line of bargain-priced wines from parent Concha Y Toro, and they are based around the burgeoning vineyards in Chile's Maule Valley region.

Blending is one thing the Chileans do well, and the Palo Alto Reserve is a combination of 55 percent cabernet sauvignon, 15 percent syrah, and 30 percent carmenere. The resulting red is a medium-bodied, versatile crowd-pleaser with notes of blueberry, cassis, and dried tobacco leaf. The oak contributes back-end, finishing flavors of cedar and dried thyme, making the Palo Alto a fitting companion to burgers, pizza or barbecue.

Approximate retail price of the Palo Alto is $10 to $11; distribution in our area is through Premier Beverage Imports.

Pick of the Vine: This Riesling a fine summer sipper

Pick of the Vine: This Riesling a fine summer sipper

BY TIM DWIGHT • FOR FLORIDA TODAY • May 28, 2009
View article here: www.floridatoday.com


The 2008 Kung Fu Girl Riesling from Charles Smith Wines is this week's selection.

With Memorial Day behind us, we've moved into our summer weather cycle: hot, humid and plenty of rain. Wine drinking habits invariably will change as well; time to lighten up and check out what's new in whites.

The fun and frisky Kung Fu Girl qualifies on both counts. Riesling finally has begun an inevitable comeback from varietal geek-dom, and all the stats on wine consumption say the grape is on a roll.

That's roll, as in rock 'n' roll, which fits the style -- and producer -- of this particular wine. Vintner Charles Smith returned to the wine business several years ago after spending more than a decade managing rock groups in northern Europe. His nontraditional approach to winemaking, "the modernist project," in his words, has generated quite a bit of buzz among the critics and wine press.

Smith has established his miniempire (and more on that in a future "The Grapevine" column) in the Walla Walla region of southeastern Washington State. He's sourcing grapes from throughout the best growing sites of that region as well as along the Columbia River Valley.

The Evergreen Vineyard lies along the steep cliffs above the river, and the climate allows the grapes to mature well into the season until harvest in late October.

Varietal character, similar to a classic Mosel-style riesling, is clean and fruity as fermentation and aging occur in stainless steel. The resulting wine is an intense and nervy white, with aromas of apricots, peaches and pears. Crisp with just a slight edge of sweetness from the fruit, the Kung Fu Girl will pair well with summer salads, Asian cuisine and sushi.

But this is one wine that will please poolside loungers as well; no need to go into fighting mode to enjoy this Kung Fu Girl.

The Grapevine: Wine clubs make their mark

The Grapevine: Wine clubs make their mark

TIM DWIGHT | THE GRAPEVINE | FOR FLORIDA TODAY | May 21, 2009
Link to full article: http://m.floridatoday.com/detail.jsp?key=212230&full=1


These tough economic times have led many a business owner to examine all aspects of their operations in an attempt to remain profitable.

The wine business is no different.

Despite recent national sales figures that show wine consumption continues to grow by about 2 percent, there's been a paradigm shift in the buying patterns of the vast majority of customers: They're spending less.

Discounts and bargains have become increasingly important and lead retailers to explore new avenues of revenue. For me, it was the (long procrastinated-over) decision to start a retail wine club.

I quickly learned that wine clubs can be divided into two sorts: national level clubs that ship selections from a central warehouse location, and local clubs that require customers to stop in and pick up the bottles.


The basic concept of these clubs works the same; you pay a monthly membership and usually receive two bottles of wine. You also can receive a discount on additional wine purchases.

Proclaiming to be the largest wine club of its kind in the United States, the folks at Gold Medal Wine Club have a dazzling Web site with all sorts of opportunities for consumers. There's the basic gold level, two bottles for $34 plus tax and shipping each month, followed by the increasingly costly platinum, diamond and international series, which can set you back $159 to $189 per shipment. (The highest-priced selections come quarterly rather than monthly.)

The large-scale wine club at Gold Medal certainly seems to be a commendable operation, though it left me with a few nagging thoughts:


With thousands of members receiving wine, wouldn't all wine selections have to come from large-production wineries? And how does shipping work in the dog days of summer? Not a problem if you live close to the west coast, where most of the clubs originate, but it's a long way to our sunny shores in Florida.

Anyway, the folks at Gold Medal were light-years away from what I had in mind for my retail store in Indian Harbour Beach. My pubescent club efforts would be focused on local operations; no shipping needed.

I decided to contact some friends in the business in Orlando.

Tim Varan's Tim's Wine Market has been around for nearly two decades. It's on Orange Avenue with picturesque views of Lake Ivanhoe across the street. It has had a locals wine club since 2004, and with the addition of two franchise operations in Lakeland and Windemere, is now up to nearly 500 members.

"We were probably the first ones in Central Florida to have a wine club," said Steve Butler, Tim's longtime manager, "and it was just a natural extension of what we'd been doing already. And although we've grown quite a bit over the years, we're still able to focus on small production wines that we feel represent great value to our members."

Tim and his staff alternate between two reds one month and a red and white the next.

In Brevard County, WineStyles, a franchise wine operation at The Avenues in Viera, has had a wine club since its inception in 2005.

"The club structure comes with the franchise package from the parent corporation," said manager Mike Bennett. "The wine selections are made at a national level by an associated board of sommeliers and trade professionals."

But occasionally, Bennett and owners' Manuel and Maria Rosales will override the selections to focus on something they particularly enjoy.

"We've got the flexibility to go locally or smaller production when we need it," Bennett said.

Pick of the Vine: Rediscover white wine

Pick of the Vine: Rediscover white wine

TIM DWIGHT | FOR FLORIDA TODAY | May 14, 2009
View article here: www.floridatoday.com


Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rose 2008 is this week's selection for Pick of the Vine.

Temperatures have certainly heated up locally, a fact which is bound to alter our dining patterns. A little less pasta and cream, a little more fish and chicken, and what better place than out on the grill. Even red meat dishes stand a good chance of moving outdoors, and the wine to match. Well, it's a great time to rediscover white wines.

Can't quite fathom chardonnay with burgers and barbecue, but still longing for something you can chill down? Think pink. Technically, you're still drinking a red wine of course (with the skins removed before fementation), and in the case of the Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rose, a wine that'll pare well with all sorts of cuisine.

The Mulderbosch winery comes from Stellenbosch in South Africa, and these folks know a bit about which wines to enjoy with warm weather food. All New World styling at 13.5 percent alcohol, this rose first grabs attention with its deep rose petal coloring. Floral and spicy on the nose, the cabernet begins to assert itself in the body and depth of the texture. Cranberry, cassis and cherry flavors have been fermented dry, and the residual sugar in this wine is minimal.

Imported by Cape Classic Imports, and distributed locally through Opici Wine Company. Local retail will be about $10 to $11.

Pick of the Vine: Terra Andina a fruity and delightfully rich red

Pick of the Vine: Terra Andina a fruity and delightfully rich red

TIM DWIGHT | FOR FLORIDA TODAY | May 07, 2009
View full article here: www.floridatoday.com


The Terra Andina Carmenere Reserva 2007 is this week's selection for Pick of the Vine.

Malbecs from the eastern side of the Andes in Argentina have (deservedly) received quite a bit of attention during the past several years; stick with me here as we head west over the mountains to the Rapel Valley in neighboring Chile.

As malbec is to Argentina, the carmenere grape is to the mountainous growing regions of the western Andes. This latter grape represents an opportunity for the Chilean wine industry to re-establish its reputation with a unique varietal that is rarely planted elsewhere around the world.

Known sometimes as "the lost grape of Bordeaux," carmenere originated, as did malbec, in the southeastern regions of France. But whereas malbec continues to be grown in its home country, carmenere is all but extinct throughout Bordeaux and the Loire Valley.

Fortunately for wine lovers, the grape migrated during its heyday down to South America, along with the other five Bordeaux varietals: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, cab franc and malbec.

Carmenere has been thriving in the central grape-growing regions of Chile for more than 100 years, but its success as a stand-alone varietal is a relatively recent development. Imports to the United States have increased dramatically during the past decade, and carmenere is no longer a stranger to wine isles in the local market.

Terra Andina, owned by the much-larger Santa Rita winery in Santiago, Chile, produces a line of affordable carmeneres that appear with some regularity in our local area. Their "regular" bottling can be found for less than $10 a bottle, but I'd urge readers to search out this winery's "Reserva," of which 2007 is the current vintage. This upper-tier bottling will cost another $2 or so, and it's worth every penny.

For more of this article, click here.

The Grapevine: Cellar dwellars: Part-time Merritt Island residents own California winery

Cellar dwellars: Part-time Merritt Island residents own California winery

TIM DWIGHT | THE GRAPEVINE | FOR FLORIDA TODAY | April 02, 2009
View full article here: http://floridatoday.mlogic.mobi/detail.jsp?key=193507&rc=li&full=1


It's a long way from Brevard County to a boutique winery in San Francisco. But it's an adventurous journey Charles and Julie Atkins have enjoyed.

Julie, who graduated from Rockledge High School "sometime in the '80s," and Charles, an Alabama native, began 5 Points Cellars in 2006.

They met in the 5 Points neighborhood of Birmingham, Ala., in 1989 after he had finished school at Auburn and she at Georgia Tech. Eight weeks' later, Charles was proposing over the pilot's PA system on an Eastern Airlines flight to Orlando to meet Julie's parents.

Dreams of a winery were pretty farfetched at that point, and the need for some adventure led Chuck and Julie to travel to more than 30 countries during the next 18 years.

In 2005, they headed to California to start their winery.

"Please call me Chuck," Charles said, when I met him. He had several bottles of wine in tow. "We don't officially have any of our wines in Florida yet, but I had some at the house, and I hope you don't mind tasting."

Not a problem, I assured him, grabbing my trusty corkscrew so we could begin the research.

Having visited the 5 Points Cellars Web site, I was somewhat familiar with the wines the Atkins produce. There was a chardonnay, a pinot noir, a syrah and a couple cabernets, all sourced from grapes grown in distinctly separate viticultural regions.

"We're going to be adding another pinot, most likely from Oregon, and a cab-based blend from Washington, too," Chuck said.

Very impressive, I thought, but how the heck are they going to cover that much territory? Most producers either grow or purchase grapes from an area close to their winery.

"Well, that's both the tough part and the easy part," Chuck said. "We are purchasing grapes from some pretty good sources, but we've got no actual winery -- yet."

The 5 Points wines are produced with the assistance of the Atkins' winemakers at a custom "crush" facility in San Francisco.

"They're actually located just down the street from where we stay when we're out west," Chuck said. "That's really how this whole thing got started."

Mindful of the old axiom that "the quickest way to make a small fortune in the wine business is to start with a large fortune," the couple explored different business opportunities during their travels. Chuck's entrepreneurial spirit led to a successful start-up in the medical devices field, while Julie began a career with Jabil Electronics, currently as director of business development.

"It's a bit ironic that Julie's company is based in St. Petersburg, and mine in Fort Lauderdale," Chuck said. "We still travel quite a bit, as it is important to keep our day jobs, as we refer to them. But now that we've begun 5 Points, that's home for us, too, as well." As of now, production for wines is limited to several hundred cases, but eventual growth is the game plan. And now that he and Julie are making more wine than they -- or their friends' on both coasts -- can hope to consume, "it's time to get serious," Chuck said.

One of his missions on the recent trip was to begin the search for a distributor in Florida. The 5 Points Anderson Valley 2007 Pinot Noir has just received 90 points in Wine Enthusiast magazine, and 91 points in Wine Spectator, which has led to national demand. But as much as I enjoyed that particular wine, the two cabernet sauvignon bottlings blew me away in the tasting.

The 2006 Oakville-designated cab retails for approximately $75 from the winery. Production was only 50 cases, and the grapes were grown in the famed Beckstoffer-Tokalon vineyard, the source of some of Napa Valley's top cabernets. I've seen -- and sold -- wines from that vineyard for $150 to $200 dollars. Top-notch grapes, and a fine effort from winemaker Kian Tavakoli; softer red and black berry flavors but some substantial barrel tannins from the new French oak.

Chuck and Julie are active in the entire winemaking process, from grape selection to working with the juice in the winery, though the experienced Tavakoli makes their cabs and Chris Nelson the 5 Points pinots.

My favorite wine of the tasting however was the 2006 Howell Mountain bottling ($60). All mountain fruit; 100 percent cabernet sauvignon from the Ink Grade vineyard, though surprisingly accessible for such a young wine. And alas, just 50 cases of this beauty as well.

In Brevard, we are just going to have to wait for more accessibility -- and a deal with an eventual distributor.

"Julie spends more time here with her folks still living in the area," Chuck said. "She's an active partner, and she'll be doing some of the leg work while I'm gone."

"I grew up in locally and lived in Brevard for many years," she said.

She still has friends in the area. They hope to eventually be able to offer some tastings locally, and given the quality of the wine, I hope I'm first in line.