Tim Dwight | Through the Grapevine | September 10, 2009
To view the article as it appears in Florida Today, click here: http://www.floridatoday.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=2009909100308
Back on the road, running late again, my traveling companion and I are trying to follow the directions we've been given.
"Do NOT attempt to use MapQuest, a GPS, or any local road maps to get to Colgin Cellars", read the instruction sheet I'd received in the mail.
Instead: "Turn off Silverado Trail at the green barn, follow the road to Lake Hennessey, turn across from the white fence at the first of three driveways."
Then: Up the hill for 2.4 miles, right at the (unmarked) fork, and then a quick left. Stop at the gate and wait for assistance.
A formidable route, but nothing compared to the task of arranging a tour in the first place. Colgin Cellars is one of the elite; no tour busses, no winery sales, and no signs to let you know that you've indeed arrived.
I'd managed to wrangle an invitation for a visit to the winery, though it required playing all my cards; wine retailer, restaurateur, long-time mailing list member, wine writer, and finally, fellow Floridian.
It's this last connection that ultimately did the trick, I believe, as I added a post script to my ultimate request stating, "and a previous acquaintance with (owner) Ann Colgin, back to her days of living in Florida".
Not exactly close buddies, but I had spoken to Ann a few times during her tenure in Palm Beach, where she had been President of Fairchilds Fine Art from 1985 to 1997.
A circuitous route from Florida to the Napa Valley, Colgin managed the transition from art director and auctioneer to become one of Napa's most prestigious addresses. Ann and her former husband Fred Schrader began Colgin-Schrader Cellars back in 1992, though by the third vintage she was alone at the helm of a winery with a burgeoning reputation. Though apparently handicapped by not owning any vines or physical winery, Colgin nevertheless succeeded through a series of fortunate choices. First and foremost was the decision to hire up-and-coming winemaker Helen Turley, a viniferous wunderkin who had just begun to make her mark upon the Napa wine scene.
Leasing property and purchasing grapes from the Herb Lamb vineyard on the eastern hillsides of St. Helena proved fortuitous as well; Colgin and company barely had several vintages out of the way and they were earning scores from critics such as Robert Parker for 95, 98, and ultimately 100 points for the Colgin Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon. Such perfection would seemingly be an easy resting point for some vintners, but Colgin was just getting started. Over the course of the next dozen years, she purchased and renovated a five acre abandoned wine site once belonging to Josephine Tycheson, the first woman winemaker in 19th Century California, then moved on to develop a third vineyard source from consultant David Abreu's Madrona Ranch.
Colgin, Turley and Abreu, with an occasional visit from Bordelaise consultant Dr. Alain Raynaud, built upon their early successes, placing Colgin Cellars at the top ranks of Napa Valley wineries. But the one thing missing still--and next on Ann's agenda-was an actual on-site winery.
In 2004, Colgin and her then-winemaker, Mark Aubert, located a parcel high on top of Pritchard Hill which proved both remote and inspiring. Several years of digging out boulders, terracing for vineyards and fine-tuning the 125 acre property led to the establishment of IX (No. 9) Estate, and finally, a bricks-and-mortar winery of her own. At an altitude of 1300 feet above sea level, the new vineyards command breathtaking views of the Napa Valley below; Lake Hennessey shining like jewel in the backdrop behind the winery.
This is the vantage point that my companion and I have stumbled across as we pull into a gravel driveway and park our car. We're late, naturally, and this hasn't helped with the feeling of intimidation as we knock on the door with no apparent results.
"Maybe we should just open it and peak in?", queried my partner; "someone's got to be here..."
We've certainly come too far not to poke around a bit, and soon inside the door we make the acquaintance of a young lady busily dusting some shelves. "Ah, Ms. Colgin, yes, she's here...and waiting."
All of the thoughts of how difficult this visit was to arrange, of how Colgin's PR guru requested a list of potential topics of query in advance, of the formal tone of all our previous correspondence: I took a deep breathe and waited. "Delighted to see you!", enthused Ann Colgin as she breezed into the room with a slightly perplexed look. "Where was it exactly that we'd met before...?"
Establishing our credentials as fellow Floridians, my friend and I began what eventually turned out to be a several hour visit of the winery. And any thoughts of intimidation and formality were quickly dispelled by Ms. Colgin, who proved herself both knowledgeable, disarming, attractive, and ...; "You'd probably best stop there", suggested my friend, reading my notes. "I can see you getting us in some trouble with the wives back home."
So, yes, suffice it to say, we had what was to be the highlight of our trip through the wine country. The views, the winery tour, the opportunity of meeting with current winemaker Allison Tauziat, these all had a slightly intoxicating effect before retiring to the casual tasting bar to sip some actual wine.
"We're producing five different wines now", said Colgin. "There's still the original cab from the Herb Lamb vineyard, though that contract will be ending soon. We're still partnering with David Abreu for grapes from his vineyard, and the Tycheson Hill property has really come into its own."
"Up here at IX Estate, we've planted a mixture of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cab franc, petite verdot and syrah", continued our host. "We're releasing estate bottlings of a cabernet-blend and also the syrah." All very difficult, if not impossible, to find once the wines are bottled. Top restaurants can make the cut to receive an allocation, but a majority goes straight to the wine club mailing list.
The soon to be released '06 vintage of the IX Estate has garnered a perfect 100 point score from Robert Parker, so there's a buzz of anticipation that comes with such a pinnacle of success. Parker described the property "as close to a viticultural nirvana as I've ever seen", which are redoubtable words coming from such a well- traveled connoisseur.
My friend and I are content to sip some of this ethereal wine in the company of our gracious host.
High up above the Napa Valley is a pretty fine place to be, indeed.
~ Tim Dwight
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